Milan Fashion Week: An Instagram-worthy extravaganza

If London is the fashion capital known for its hot young things, and Paris is the city of couture and histor...

Posted: Sep 25, 2018 1:34 PM
Updated: Sep 25, 2018 1:34 PM

If London is the fashion capital known for its hot young things, and Paris is the city of couture and history-laden heavyweights, then Milan sits somewhere in the middle. Once synonymous only with the glamour of the big names -- Armani, Gucci, Prada, Dolce & Gabbana -- in recent seasons the city has become a hotbed for new labels pushing to the fore. The likes of MSGM, Marco de Vincenzo, No. 21 and GCDS are now all commanding the same attention and column inches once reserved for the power players. Presenting new perspectives on Italian fashion, these brands have saved the city from going stale.

But the fashion industry on the whole -- regardless of country -- is in a state of flux, facing tough questions on equality, diversity and relevance in 2018. With this in mind, it wasn't just the clothes that had people talking. Here are five of Milan's key takeaways.

Arts and entertainment

Business figures

Celebrities

Companies

Continents and regions

Diversity

Europe

Fashion design

Fashion shows

Fashion Week

Fendi

Italy

LVMH

Milan

Miuccia Prada

Societal issues

Society

Southern Europe

Facebook

Instagram

Internet and WWW

Social media

Technology

Embracing diversity ... finally

It's no secret that fashion week needs to up its game when it comes to racial diversity, and, historically, Milan has lagged on this front. Last season, only 27% non-white models were cast.

But this season, there seemed to be a notable increase. Model Winnie Harlow opened both Byblos and Philipp Plein, while Fendi was opened by Adwoa Aboah and closed by Adut Akech. Philipp Plein, often one of the most divisive shows of the season, was one of the front-runners when it came to racial diversity: about half of his cast were models of color, including hijab-wearing model Halima Aden.

Age came into play too. Designer Erika Cavallini cast a group of older women to walk, a refreshing change that won't go unnoticed by her customers.

Feminism on the brain

During Milan Fashion Week, the New York Times released a damning exposé detailing the exploitation of female workers at the bottom of the manufacturing chain in southern Italy by luxury Italian brands, including Max Mara and Fendi. While the National Chamber of Italian Fashion sent out a press release trying to reframe its findings, the report kept the politics of fashion at the forefront of everyone's minds.

On the runway, gender politics were most astutely dissected by Miuccia Prada. The Prada collection was borne of the tightrope we walk between conservatism and liberalism, provocation and virtue. The prim elements -- knitted jumpers over white shirts, long skirts -- featured revealing cut-out details on the bust and back and were juxtaposed with transparent knee-high stockings and awkward sock-cum-sandals in jarring bright colors for off-kilter sex appeal.

Versace, too, was a celebration of womanhood, with Donatella Versace dedicating the show to powerful, fearless women everywhere. The collection of unashamed, modern glamour was made to accentuate and sculpt the female form fit the current moment perfectly. And the cherry on top? Nineties supermodel Shalom Harlow closing the show after a six-year runway hiatus, showing the Insta-generation just how it's done.

Doing it for the 'gram

In Milan, a city that lives for glitz and glamour, "less is more" does not apply. And when it came to this season's shows excess was definitely on trend, with social media playing perhaps the biggest part in some designers' decisions. Emporio Armani went for gold by taking over part of the city's Linate Airport, ushering some 2,500 guests through security and departure gates into a hangar -- which is already normally emblazoned with the brand's name and logo -- for pre-show cocktails and mini hot dogs. The show itself, held in a purpose-built stadium within the hangar, was the Instagram success the brand was no doubt vying for -- perhaps the most valuable currency of a fashion show now.

Elsewhere, Moschino's sense of humor provided plenty of Instagram fodder, with Jeremy Scott choosing to show an "unfinished" collection which had been scribbled over with colored markers. A shrug seemingly fashioned from an oversized tape measure and Gigi Hadid in a wedding dress surrounded by floating butterflies were particular hits.

And finally, it wouldn't be Milan Fashion Week without a spectacle from Philipp Plein, the self-proclaimed "king of bling." The designer may have taken stick in the past for his over-the-top collections, but it's undeniable that he understands the power of social media as a tool to elevate his brand's star power.

The collection, inspired by Michael Jackson, was wholly predictable, yet the addition of Chris Brown, Rita Ora, rapper 6ix9ine and a troop of burlesque performers made Plein's show a viral sensation.

"Social media changed the whole game for fashion," Plein said in an email after the show. "More and more brands choose a similar formula to mine ... Now everyone invites celebrities and performers, but when I started I was the only one doing that in Milan."

America the beautiful

The United Sates may be gripped by political turmoil, but designers are still finding inspiration in the country's sunnier days. Fledgling brand Brognano took its cues from the surfer community of the Californian coast for their first show, an influence shared by Etro, who went one step further and cast professional surfers as models.

Elsewhere Byblos looked to the Nevada desert and Burning Man, citing its vibrancy and radical nature as key influences for Spring-Summer 2019. MSGM found peace and love in tie-dye, while rising star Marco de Vincenzo called on the childhood memory of an aunt visiting his home in Sicily from the US, bringing little pieces of American culture with each visit. The collection was a hybrid, a tale of two contrasting countries, the urban and the rural, or as the designer stated, "the drama and vitality of Sicily and the innocence and optimism of America."

Sportswear grows up

For several years now, sportswear has been making itself heard on runways around the world, from the ugly trainer craze still sweeping the fashion industry to canny collaborations -- most recently between Fila and Fendi, who teamed teaming up for next-level amounts of logomania (seen front row on Nicki Minaj at this week's Fendi show.)

But Spring-Summer 2019 is throwing us up a new one: cycling shorts. A trend that has been bubbling on Instagram for a while now -- see Kylie Jenner's skin-tight ensembles -- Lycra has gone luxe. And in Milan they were everywhere: We saw navy ones on Bella Hadid at Fendi, fluorescent ones at Blumarine, printed ones at Prada, and baggy ones at Sportmax. Something for everyone, it seems.

Terre Haute
Cloudy
29° wxIcon
Hi: 35° Lo: 29°
Feels Like: 24°
Robinson
Cloudy
29° wxIcon
Hi: 33° Lo: 28°
Feels Like: 21°
Indianapolis/Eagle Creek
Cloudy
29° wxIcon
Hi: 31° Lo: 29°
Feels Like: 18°
Paris
Cloudy
27° wxIcon
Hi: 34° Lo: 29°
Feels Like: 21°
Mattoon/Charleston
Cloudy
29° wxIcon
Hi: 32° Lo: 28°
Feels Like: 29°
Terre Haute
Cloudy
29° wxIcon
Hi: 34° Lo: 28°
Feels Like: 24°
Terre Haute
Cloudy
29° wxIcon
Hi: 33° Lo: 28°
Feels Like: 24°
Cold evening with scattered snow showers.
WTHI Planner
WTHI Temps
WTHI Radar

Latest Video

Image

Sunday Evening Forecast

Image

Sunday Morning Forecast Update

Image

Sunday: Snow showers and windy. High: 33

Image

GBB Orleans North Daviess

Image

GBB Bloomfield Rivet

Image

Terre Haute North Evansville Harrison

Image

Northview Sullivan

Image

Barr Reeve North Daviess Buggy Bowl

Image

SKYWARN SPOTTER CLASS

Image

Saturday Morning Forecast Update

WTHI Events

 

Illinois Coronavirus Cases

(Widget updates once daily at 7 p.m. CT)

Cases: 1064667

Reported Deaths: 20020
CountyCasesDeaths
Cook4313858980
DuPage685341144
Will57707867
Lake52834884
Kane45493675
Winnebago26094407
Madison23998461
St. Clair21943424
McHenry21395248
Champaign1528896
Peoria14860238
Sangamon14406234
McLean13093159
Tazewell11825242
Rock Island11805302
Kankakee11401179
Kendall956578
LaSalle9328247
Macon8739179
Vermilion7404112
DeKalb738192
Adams7298117
Williamson6119115
Boone551377
Whiteside5230173
Clinton497985
Coles468480
Ogle457171
Knox4553140
Grundy431854
Effingham428568
Jackson413267
Henry399076
Marion3938111
Franklin380368
Macoupin379594
Randolph369367
Livingston360866
Monroe353370
Stephenson349574
Jefferson3392104
Morgan323789
Woodford314966
Logan306056
Lee301872
Montgomery300641
Bureau299384
Christian296473
Fayette289253
Perry261260
Iroquois256956
Fulton253649
Jersey218456
Lawrence216730
McDonough211751
Saline200553
Douglas198633
Union196832
Shelby195735
Crawford174934
Cass174131
Bond172624
Warren157743
Pike153846
Richland152244
Wayne150143
Jo Daviess147824
Hancock146733
Clark145929
Washington144025
Edgar142853
Carroll142233
Ford138049
Moultrie136128
White131930
Clay130439
Greene125242
Johnson121015
Mercer116729
Wabash116314
Piatt116216
Mason115940
De Witt113027
Cumberland107027
Jasper103016
Massac101330
Menard86410
Hamilton71116
Marshall65713
Schuyler61516
Pulaski6093
Brown60611
Stark49320
Edwards4619
Henderson44816
Calhoun4374
Alexander3847
Gallatin3834
Scott3731
Putnam3442
Hardin3008
Pope2432
Unassigned1110
Out of IL330

Indiana Coronavirus Cases

(Widget updates once daily at 8 p.m. ET)

Cases: 587049

Reported Deaths: 9287
CountyCasesDeaths
Marion810691296
Lake44121665
Allen31797541
Hamilton28178303
St. Joseph26684369
Elkhart24057340
Vanderburgh18519213
Tippecanoe17305121
Johnson14398284
Porter14342159
Hendricks13793241
Madison10509212
Vigo10432171
Clark10151129
Monroe9029108
Delaware8782129
LaPorte8721153
Kosciusko784677
Howard7834137
Warrick636790
Hancock633297
Bartholomew624294
Floyd6098105
Wayne5903156
Grant5799109
Dubois541670
Boone531467
Morgan512388
Marshall492484
Henry491164
Cass469060
Noble458757
Dearborn454544
Jackson413145
Shelby401178
Lawrence379475
Clinton363639
Gibson355056
DeKalb336363
Montgomery333851
Harrison326042
Knox325439
Miami308243
Steuben304940
Adams294435
Whitley292325
Wabash291645
Ripley290845
Putnam282447
Huntington281257
Jasper280733
White265738
Daviess260772
Jefferson248538
Fayette241348
Decatur241282
Greene232460
Posey230026
Wells228547
LaGrange223461
Clay216432
Scott216437
Randolph207540
Jennings191335
Sullivan188531
Spencer179917
Fountain178625
Washington175018
Starke170741
Jay162021
Fulton158829
Owen157837
Carroll151315
Orange150533
Rush148118
Perry145327
Vermillion144333
Franklin142533
Parke12788
Tipton127332
Pike113125
Blackford107022
Pulaski94637
Newton89020
Brown85530
Benton84110
Crawford7479
Martin69213
Warren6537
Switzerland6175
Union6063
Ohio4647
Unassigned0374